A followup to this post where I discussed the various versions of this I made. This one is in Sapphire Jade cashmere-silk two ply, and was ordered as red, but is clearly quite orange. Never mind, I like it. It is super-fragile yarn and I’ve done it no favours knitting it at a very loose gauge. But while it holds up, I love it. The original pattern is from Taiga Hilliard Designs
Manny took some pictures today. This is Geneva in early October. Beautiful!
I came back from Australia this year with a lot of rather garish (by my standards, at least) print dresses. It prompted me into doing something I’d been thinking about for ages. Using bits and pieces of left over yarn to make small, light shoulder-coverers. It just goes to show what sort of summer it’s been here that I’ve had the time to knit seven of them.
From left to right:
Bouton D’or Caraibes Turquoise
Sandnes Garn Mini Duett 55% cotton 45% wool
Rowan Glace Red
Louet MerLin Sports Weight Goldilocks
Handmaiden Cashmere silk Purple
Jade Sapphire cashmere silk bought as red, clearly orange
Rowan Calmer green
Pattern: All Year Cardigan by Taiga Hilliard. Yarn See above. Modifications The pattern is my template, but that is, indeed, the point of the designer, so modifications are not only in order, but positively expected. I haven’t done anything very adventurous with those I’ve so far finished, but since they were prompted by busy prints, I thought simple was best. I’ve finish off the edges in garter stitch, 3/2 rib, 1/1 rib, stocking stitch. All of them have a gauge of about 19 st/4 inches; in the case of most of the yarns this means they make a nice drapey fabric. The major exception is Rowan Calmer, which was knitted exactly to gauge and is a much tighter fabric. Thoughts I thoroughly recommend the pattern, if you are looking for a template rather than a precise specific look, such as Wispy. I’m not suggesting this lacks as a pattern, only that it permits you to take it wherever you like. I’ve worn all of these a lot, which I guess means the idea works. I can pack several of them in a suitcase and they weigh all of a few hundred grams between them. Needless to say, these can be knitted as long as short as you like, and being constructed top down means little fretting about amounts of yarn. The least yarn I had was about 360m of the Handmaiden.
More on the yarns.
(1) I hate knitting with pure cotton, being yet to find one that’s nice to the touch. The Bouton D’or was discontinued and it’s easy to understand why. Glace is no fun to knit but at least the end result is okay to wear.
(2) I picked up the Sandnes Garn Mini Duett in Stockholm a couple of months ago. It was a pleasure to knit with – I guess it is pretty much the same as Rowan’s Wool Cotton. I’m hoping it wears well, but it feels too nice and soft to have such expectations.
(3) I love MerLin, it is such a shame Louet discontinued it. The combination of wool and linen works really well. This is the only one of the seven versions of this that has my unconditional enthusiasm.
(4) The Handmaiden cashmere silk is going to look awful soon, but a delight to knit. I hate the striped effect, I might add. Exactly why I steer clear of hand dyed less than solid effects.
(5) The Jade Sapphire is solid in colour, also a joy to knit and wear. It looks like it might be a little more robust than the Handmaiden, but it hasn’t been taken out as much, so it’s a bit early to tell.
Remember the days when one hung out for the next issue of Interweave Knits? Rushed it down to your local coffeeshop to pour over it with friends, analyse it all to death, intend to knit just everything in it? Those days have well and truly gone.
I will never go electronic in preference to hard print and continue to buy knitting books whenever one comes out that takes my fancy – though I do think every publisher should take the Ysolda route and provide the .pdf version free with hard copy books. The thing about magazines, however, is not that the format is outmoded since for me it isn’t, but that magazines are no longer the best source of good patterns. The online opportunities are fabulous for designers now, firstly to completely go it alone, or secondly to use the sites like Ravelry, Patternfish or Twist Collective, which is the source of Zahedra. For now, at least, Twist Collective has the highest standards of the various online pattern conglomerations. I look forward to the quarterly installments of their online publication the way I used to do with the magazines.
It’s been a good while since I wrote up knitting for my blog, but since nobody has finished one of these yet, maybe my thoughts will come in handy.
PatternZehedra A great, well written pattern. When I observed the back is worked across 4 charts and some non-chart stitches as well, I wondered already if this was for the too hard basket, but what a snivelling coward I am. Within a few rows the pattern is so easy that you don’t need the charts at all and the various stitch markers to help wend you way through the charts can be discarded too. It is perfectly simple to fit in the side shaping with the repetitions of the larger chart. Really, it couldn’t be more straightforward.
Yarn Karabella Aurora Chunky has come in for some flack on Ravelry: at 50m a ball, you do not want ANY joins and evidently that is far from what people are finding. I used 23.5 balls for this jacket and 5 of them balls had joins: a couple half way through or so, a couple close to the end. Not the end of the world, I found the very short pieces useful, but still. This is an expensive yarn and I think we can be fussy about it. It would be so much better if it came in 100g balls. The yarn itself is fantastic, like its sibling Aurora eight. I have several jumpers made of this, a couple of which have been worn many many times over five or so winters and they look about new. If this line had the quality of Debbie Bliss’s or Jo Sharp’s colour palettes as well as the variety, it would be the perfect wool. That’s speaking as one who finds most wool impossible to put to the skin, whereas this is never an issue with Aurora. Do you want to know if I felt like that half way through darning in almost 100 ends? YES. I still felt like that.
Modifications I shortened the ribbing of the sleeves as I needed to cut a couple of inches off their length and wanted that in proportion. I used 5.5mm and 6mm needles, a little smaller than recommended for this yarn. Again, because of the concern about stretching – the jacket weighs over 1 kg – I thought maybe tightening up the gauge a little would be a good thing.
Thoughts First of all, If you are using pure wool, as I was, this is a heavy garment. I suggest ignoring the instructions to attach the back and fronts together before embarking upon the button bands: do them first, they take a while and it will be much lighter, easier work.
I made the mistake of changing the type of button holes without changing the placement to match: stupidly, starting from the bottom, I made the first hole 5 stitches in – that is fine doing so from the top of the button band, but NOT the bottom!!!
There are so many different traps to fall into if you start messing around with patterns. My gauge is smaller than recommended with a two-fold result: firstly I have nothing like the positive ease the pattern suggests – that is, 4-6 inches. I erred on snug deliberately, not really intending as snug as it is, but being concerned that a stretchy stitch in a heavy yarn would lead to stretching in the fullness of time. I love it like it is, as it makes it an inside cardigan as well as a warm out-doors affair.
Today I was in it, wandering around Geneva at about zero – it was snowing – with only a blouse on underneath and I wasn’t as warm as toast, but nor was I cold. Impressive! The other effect of the gauge difference, however, is that maybe the pockets are a little too narrow: I would have liked them an inch or so wider and this would have been simple to achieve if I’d realised the implications of what I was doing.
All in all? I am really awfully happy with this. Robin Melanson is a great designer, not one of the super trendy ones around at the moment, but I want things that last and this retro jacket is just the ticket how can retro ever get outdated? Not only that, I am tired of the trend to one piece knitting. Seams and sewing are intrinsically important parts of knitting, they add structural integrity as well as lines that look good. Not to mention places to weave in ends: I had almost 100 (yikes!!) to darn in and having a seam to direct the ends to makes a huge difference. It’s a nightmare trying to hide them in seamless knitting. And constant knitting in the round with an increasingly cumbersome and heavy item is another thing to be balanced against an hour’s sewing up. It’s the sort of thing Melanson has her own views on and she talks about them in the Twist Collective blog here
Which reminds me, to end with a confession, although Robin recommends backstitch for the sleeves I muddled about with mattress stitch of a sort and I feel like it is okay. I have an aversion to backstitch because my very favourite designer in the world does, but that’s a story for another time.
Thanks to ace camera man, Manny, for coming out in the cold with me.
The yarn is expensive, I guess, $25 per 100g ball, but I only needed 4 balls to make this. In fact originally I’d intended something much shorter, but once I had to break into the fourth ball, I couldn’t help myself, I had to use it up.
In fact, I did have enough left of the fourth ball, if I’d wanted, to make longer sleeves or to add something around the neck. The brilliant thing about this pattern is that because it’s top down you can make everything exactly the length you desire – or exactly the length your quantity of yarn permits. There is no panic the way there is with bottom up knitting where there is always that fear of Not Having Enough.
Pattern Stephanie Japel’s Easy V-neck Raglan Yarn Noro Taiyo. The suggested needle size is 4.5-5. I’m a loose knitter so I went for 4.5mm, but I was way out and had to start again with 5. Modifications To suit gauge Thoughts I love this, but am slightly worried about how robust the yarn will turn out to be. It is 70% silk/cotton with 15% wool and 15% nylon. But it was such a loose yarn, which broke a couple of times without any encouragement, that I wonder if the nylon is going to do its job. I wish there had been less ties in the yarn, a couple a ball, but worst is that at one point when joining yarn after a break they didn’t bother following the colour scheme and so way too much of one colour scheme came in a row which made that portion of the yarn unusable. Still, despite these criticisms, I have to say I would use it again. The colour schemes are lovely and finally Noro has come up with a yarn that is skin bearable for me. I can’t make myself buy a yarn on the assurance that it will become acceptable to the skin in the fullness of time. It’s now or never for me.
If you love Rowan Summer Tweed, you really should check out The Kasbah Collection – far superior to their first dedicated Summer Tweed book.
Honestly, isn’t the back so cute? I’m thinking I’m just going to have to walk backwards all the time now so people see it.
Pattern Cloud by Martin Storey in The Kasbah Collection Yarn Rowan Summer Tweed Modifications Put edging all around the neck Thoughts I knitted the extra-small, even though I’m bigger than that and I ended up with 2 balls not used, but it is still, well, certainly not small on me. Probably about perfect. Moral: ALWAYS knit summer tweed way too small. I attached the bow with press studs so I don’t have to wash and iron it when I wash the jumper. I’m not completely fond of this yet, but I think after I wash it, Cloud and I will become closer.
You know the one…cover feature of Interweave Winter 2006. Norah Gaughan at her best. Intricate without looking forced. Cables galore without looking chunky. I thought Jan would like to knit and and so she did. There are more pics on Ravelry, of course!
Pattern Nantucket Jacket by Norah Gaughan Interweave Knits Winter 2006. Yarn Louisa Harding Kashmir Aran 13 balls for small size, every scrap used. Modifications The sleeves are a little longer than the pattern requires. Thoughts This is supposed to have a crocheted edging, but at the end of the main pattern, Jan, who knitted it for me, had a yard, if that, of yarn left! In fact I think it looks fine without so I’m not bothering to rectify the situation. I love this and I’m told it was fun to knit…
Hold onto your seats. I did a really lousy job of documenting Beryl ages ago, so at Ravelry you’ll now find decent Beryl pics – it’s a great pattern and it deserves good pics – and also my latest chunky cashmere sweater. I love both of them!